As so many people asked for it, I finally decided to write a very personal Buenos Aires Tango Guide for our tango blog. Here is part 1, it’s all about the milongas.
Disclaimer: A complete milonga guide for Buenos Aires is a mission impossible as things are shifting and changing all the time.
Here you find my typical tango week in Buenos Aires in December 2018 – a very personal selection.
Monday is Funday: Hot, hip and funky
- dance until dawn at Milonga A la Parilla (near Palermo), including party cortinas, and have breakfast with other crazy tango people at La Bomba
- Or go to Muy Lunes (San Telmo) – but they are on vacation at the moment (February 2019)
- In case you like it more traditional: Parakultural, Salon Canning, after 2 am
Tuesdays are for Traditionalists:
- You might love it or hate it, but you have to try it: Cachirulo at El Beso. Hector will seat you (men and women separatly), and then „all in“ for your cabeceo
- When you have enough, go to Parakultural at Canning, after 2 am (my favourite Canning day). Or skip Cachirulo, take some friends and do the whole Canning-Thing: Shows, Live Music, many tourists and taxi dancers…
Wednesdays are Viru-Days:
- Do whatever first: El Rodriguez (meeting old Milongueros), Cheek to Cheek (relaxed dancing), Si Sos Brujo (young, high level, friends dance among friends, so bring some)…
- later let’s meet all at La Viruta (my favourite Viru-Day) and maybe have breakfast in front of the panaderia around the corner (ask some „insiders“ to show you the way)
Thursday: Looking for a day off? Thursdays are an option.
- Or you go to De Querusa until midnight and then back home, or to La Viruta if you really can’t get enough. But be warned: It‘s not the best Viruta day.
Fridays, you have the choice:
- Up for a dance in the afternoon? Try out Cheek to Cheek practica, dancing with teachers and tourists.
- How is your mood for the night? What about a crazy, loud Tango party @ Pipi Cucu, the place to be on Fridays.
- You like it more relaxed, social and nice? Try Las Malevas.
- Or more classical? Viva la Pepa or Canning for example?
- And of course, there is Viru as well, just in case…but you could also make Pipi Cucu your last Milonga of the night, they dance until daylight, too.
Saturdays are not for tango. Really?
- Okay: Dance at La Maria Practica or DNI Practica in the afternoon. And then have a rest or go to a bar.
- You cannot imagine an evening without tango? Fine, go to Cachirulo at Salon Canning or to La Viruta late at night.
Sundays are easy:
- La Rosa Practica in the afternoon (welcoming atmosphere, very international)
- Viva la Pepa with shows and often good teachers for the seminars
- and then visit Horacio @ Viru again – what else? It’s a very good Viru-Day.
If you have more time in Buenos Aires, start exploring: Take some friends and check out other Milongas in other barrios: I liked La Baldosa, Club Gricel, Floreal (they feel so original), El Tacuari (great place, friendly atmosphere) and even La Catedral and La Glorieta (maybe not the best places for dancing, but you should have experienced those once). If you wanna go wild: There are small and nice alternative Milongas and Practicas which are not on Hoy Milonga, sometimes you can see them on Facebook. I’m sure you’ll find out.
Some helpful tips:
- To find information on milongas use the Hoy Milonga app and Facebook. And, of course, personal tips and recommendations.
- Don’t get confused: The names/organizers of the milongas count, not the venue. In one venue are very different milongas happening on different days or even on one day.
- Practicas are informal milongas, not shortened tango classes as it is here. At practicas you usually don’t need a reservation for a table, sometimes there are even no cortinas. Practicas have a relaxed atmosphere, it’s easy to get in touch with people. They can be a gentle way to get used to the tango world in Baires, as they feel more like „our“ milongas.
Just to be said: I like traditional music, functioning rondas, acceptable floors, and I like the codigos. And I lived in Palermo, so maybe I didn‘t explore the San Telmo neighbourhood as much as it would have been worth it. All of that certainly influenced my personal milonga selection.
We are curious to learn about you reccomendations and experiences in the comments!
Part 4 – Practical tips for Buenos Aires